10% PURE C SERUM

Abstract

Ascorbic Acid has been one of the most important supplements to the human body since the early 18th century. It was discovered that Vitamin C deficiency contributed to scurvy in sailors. Human beings are one of the only mammals that are unable to synthesize ascorbic acid.1 While oral supplementation helps provide the body with some of the needed ascorbic acid, it is not nearly enough to replenish what is needed for the skin. Ultraviolet radiation, as well as smoke and environmental pollutants, create free oxygen radicals in the skin and accelerate the signs of aging. Ascorbic acid works as an antioxidant neutralizing these free radicals before they can damage skin cells.2 Ascorbic acid has also been found to stimulate the synthesis of collagen helping to reduce wrinkles.3 Topically applied, the amount of ascorbic acid in the skin can be increased up to forty times its natural amount. However, there has been little success in the development of stable topical formulations containing l-ascorbic acid, the form needed to be biologically active in the skin.4 Miaj has successfully developed a stable topical ascorbic acid serum giving customers the full benefit of this necessary vitamin.

Factors that Contribute to Aging

There are a number of factors that contribute to aging of the skin. Aging of the skin can be seen with the development of fine lines and wrinkles, skin discoloration and loss of tone or firmness.5 Aging, beneath the skin, is the breakdown of the extracellular matrix, along with damage and mutation to both collagen and DNA in the skin cells.1 Heredity does play a part in how slowly or quickly a person's skin ages, however there are other causes that accelerate the process. While smoke and pollution do play a role in the breakdown of our skins natural make-up, UV radiation seems to be the most prominent cause for this problem. Ultraviolet light is broken down into three ranges. UVC (200-290nm) refers to the shortest rays, which are completely blocked by the earth's atmosphere. UVB (290- 320nm) are longer then UVC and are absorbed by the epidermis. These rays are responsible for the "burning" which occurs when skin is exposed to the sun. UVA (320- 400nm) are the longest rays. They penetrate deep into the skins layers. Both UVA and UVB generate free radicals in the skin which break down and mutate cellular structures such as collagen and elastin causing wrinkles and other signs of aging. Vitamin C does not absorb these rays the way that sunscreens do, however it attacks the free radicals neutralizing them before they can destroy the skins structure.2 Topical ascorbic acid along with the use of a broad spectrum (UVA/UVB) sunscreen can help slow down and could possibly reverse the effects of these external elements.

Benefits of Ascorbic Acid

Vitamin C is largely known for its antioxidant properties. Antioxidants are chemicals that protect against oxidation. In the body, they protect cells against the detrimental effects that oxidation can have on cells. This unique property allows ascorbic acid to reduce erythema, or reddening, of the skin after UV exposure.1,2 Ascorbic acid has also been found to stimulate the synthesis of collagen in the skin. It is the cofactor for two enzymes essential to collagen synthesis: lysil and prolyl hydroxylases. These enzymes catalyzed hydroxylation, a critical phase in the production of collagen, "since it regulates the formation of the triple helix, the excretion of procollagen and the cross-linking of the tropocollagen". This eventually leads to the creation of the collagen fibers found in the skin.1 It has also been reported that ascorbic acid may directly stimulate synthesis by activating collagen gene regulation. This would increase the rate of transcription and also stabilize the mRNAs of procollagen signaling collagen synthesis.2,6 An increase in collagen synthesis would result in firmer skin, giving a more youthful appearance. Ascorbic acid's ability to increase collagen synthesis has also shown aiding in wound healing. Ascorbic acid has also been found to regenerate oxidized forms of alpha tocopherol. Alpha tocopherol, also know as Vitamin E, is another antioxidant found in the body. Since Vitamin E is lipid soluble, it protects the lipid parts of the cells, while Vitamin C is water soluble, protecting the aqueous, or water based, parts of the cells.5 With all of the above benefits, ascorbic acid has also been found to inhibit tyrosinase, which causes the darkening of the skin. As a skin whitener, ascorbic acid could help reduce the appearance of age spots, as well as dark circles around the eyes, resulting in more youthful skin appearance.1

Formulating with Ascorbic Acid

Ascorbic acid is highly water soluble, allowing it to be effective in the cells. However, this also creates stability issues when trying to formulate a topical product containing l-ascorbic acid. Ascorbic acid is extremely sensitive when exposed to water, light, and air. If exposed to these environmental factors, over time, the ascorbic will degrade and become inactive.7 A sample of a major Vitamin C Serum product was assayed approximately eight months prior to it expiring and was found that approximately half of the ascorbic acid claimed by the company remained in the serum. This demonstrates the instability of formulating aqueous based Vitamin C products. Derivatives of ascorbic acid have been made to try to aid in the stability of formulations. While they usually do create more stable formula, these ester forms do not perform as well as the free l-ascorbic acid. Ascorbyl palmitate, a derivative of l-ascorbic acid, penetrates into the skin but cannot be converted to l-ascorbic acid, the form needed by the cells. Another derivative is magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. This form is water soluble and seems to have the ability to promote collagen synthesis, however, it is unable to penetrate the stratum corneum when applied topically.1,3

A Stabilized Ascorbic Acid Formulation

Since water is the main culprit in oxidizing ascorbic acid, Miaj began their formulating by creating a non-aqueous base. This limits the ingredients and types of formulations that can be created. By using mixed glycols as the main vehicle for the formulation, a serum like formula was produced. The formula was further enhanced by adding a penetrating agent aiding the ascorbic acid to then be carried deeper into the skin's layers where it needs to be in order to be beneficial. The formula was additionally stabilized by adding thickening agents. This also gave the serum more body and added to the aesthetics of the product. It is this unique combination which allows the ascorbic acid to be fully solubilized without the use of water.7 This patented formulation has been proven to be both chemically and physically stable for up to 2 years. The formula remains clear and has minimal to no yellowing throughout its shelf life in a variety of glass and plastic packaging. A pH of below 3.50 is also maintained, which has been determined to be range needed to be fully beneficial. Chemically, the l-ascorbic acid has been proven to remain at the manufactured levels even when exposed to elevated temperatures. There have been a few sources that claim glycols can be harmful or irritating. Based on the US Department of Health and Human Services report of the Toxicological Profile for Ethylene Glycol and Propylene Glycol, propylene glycol is considered safe for use in cosmetic type formulations. It has been used for centuries in food, drug, and cosmetic formulations. It is considered "generally recognized as safe" or GRAS by the Food and Drug Administration.8 Glycols are widely used as humectants helping to maintain the skin's natural moisture level.

Clinical Study

An independent testing laboratory performed a twelve week clinical study. Subjects were instructed to use our 10% Vitamin C Serum every night for the duration of the study. The results were reported as follows:

• 94% reported an improvement in fine lines H
• 88% reported an improvement in skin firmness
• 88% reported a reduction in crow's feet
• 80% reported an improvement in skin texture
• 58% reported an improvement in skin tone
• 87% reported an improvement in skin's overall appearance

Additional benefits acknowledged by subjects using the 10% Vitamin C Serum were:

• 61% reported a reduction in dark circles
• 58% reported a reduction in under eye puffiness
• 42% reported a reduction in age spots

It can bee seen from the above results that our Vitamin C serum performed extremely favorably, summarized in Chart 1. Many of the subjects also expressed an interest in continuing to use the product as well as the pleasing aesthetics the product demonstrated.

Summary

Miaj has been able to successfully formulate stabilized Vitamin C products, using pure ascorbic acid, that are esthetically pleasing and provides the consumer noticeable results. Due to the uniqueness and necessity of the product, Miaj has been issued two patents on the formulations. The serious consequences that UV light and other environmental exposures have are just recently being realized. Vitamin C is the body's natural defense against these, helping both to combat and even reverse their effects. The additional benefits that ascorbic acid also possesses make it a necessity to any beauty regiment.

References

1. Manela-Azulay, M, Mandarim-de-Lacerdra, CA, Perez M, Filgueria AL, and Cuzzi, T. Vitamin C. Continuing Medical Education, 2003; 73(3):265-274
2. Traikovich, Steven S. Use of topical ascorbic acid and its effects on Photodamaged Skin Topography. Archives of Otolaryngology-Head & Neck Surgery, 1999; 125:1091-1098
3. Tian, Elizabeth. Topical creams and Medicaments - lotions and potions for skin rejuvenation. NSC Bulletin for Medical Practitioners, 2005; 16(1)
4. Wickware, Potter. Topical vitamin C can reduce sun's damage to skin. Dermatology Times. 1997; 18(6):20
5. Chui, A, Kimball, AB. Topical vitamins, minerals, and botanical ingredients as modulators of environmental and chronological skin damage. British Journal of Dermatology. 2003; 149(4):681:691
6. Humbert, P. Topical vitamin c in the treatment of photoaged skin. European Journal of Dermatology. 2001; 11(2):172:173
7. Mathur, Rajiv. IGEN, Inc., assignee. Stabilized vitamin C formulations. US patent 6,087,393. 2000 Jul 11.
8. Murray, Ed PH.D., George, Julia Ph.D. Toxicological profile for ethylene glycol and propylene glycol. US Department of Health and Human Services. September 1997.